© Bon Voyage Digital 2014 | eZine created by Matt Oliver
Welcome to a new look Bon Voyage and our new look digital magazine. Thank you for your ideas, suggestions and comments (overwhelmingly positive!) for our e-zine and we have responded to a frequent request in this edition with a piece on the Hawaiian Islands. We like to include something on making the travel process as painless as possible and this time we've identified the US airports with the best record for handling TransAtlantic passengers in a timely and efficient manner.
Join us too in Florida's bayside city of Tampa. I was lucky enough to be there just a few weeks ago and its neighbourhoods, river walk area and edgy cuisine make it an outstanding choice for a couple of nights on your next visit to the sunshine state.
Thank you for making 2014, our 35th year, another successful one for Bon Voyage and we wish you good cheer and good travelling in 2015.
Best wishes.
Alan Wilson
Managing Director
Front cover: Ybor City, Tampa. Photo by Robert La Follette.
Theresa Wilson is the born and bred American of the Bon Voyage team. Hailing from Milwaukee, Wisconsin she also lived in Phoenix, Arizona and Fairbanks, Alaska before moving to the UK. But she had never travelled to the islands of Hawaii……..
Imagine flying in a helicopter, with no doors, over an active volcano. Hovering so close you can feel the heat. Picture yourself 200 feet in the air, hanging by cables, suspended over a waterfall. What about a night swim with manta ray? And to think, I had never embraced the idea of Hawaii.
Naively, I thought it would be just like the Caribbean and it seemed a long way to go for a beach holiday. I am going on record as saying I was wrong! Thank goodness that chance presented itself in the form of an invitation as part of a tour operator familiarisation trip courtesy of the Hawaiian Tourism Board.
Off I went - London to Newark and then Newark to Honolulu – yep, all in one go! We were fortunate to try the new United Airlines Economy Plus and it was very good. The 767 on the second leg was especially roomy and the new in-flight entertainment system, superb. Worth remembering is that even though the 2nd flight was 3 hours longer than the international, it is still a domestic US service and therefore all food and alcoholic beverages must be purchased. I popped for a Mai Tai and sesame noodle salad. A bit pricey at $17.95, but the quality was good. And, when I managed to knock my Mai Tai off my tray and watched $7.00 worth of rum splash down the aisle the crew instantly replaced it without charge.
After 17 flying hours flying and a full 24 hours after leaving home, we arrived on the island of Oahu. Driving from Honolulu airport to Waikiki Beach it struck me that this was America but not as I know it. Strip malls, doughnut shops and 7-11s aplenty but also a return to the 1970s. I expected Tom Selleck as Magnum PI to appear around every corner. We arrived at Waikiki Beach just as the sun was going down. The main drag is Kalakaua Avenue and it reminds me of a mini Las Vegas strip without the casinos; lots going on and full of bars, shops and restaurants. But this 'Las Vegas' is where East meets West and you are soon reminded that to the Japanese, Honolulu is a weekend shopping destination. Asian visitors are not only numerous but they outspend the western traveller at a rate of 2 to 1.
Inevitably, given the time change, I was up before sunrise and took my first proper look at Waikiki Beach and the 300,000 year-old volcanic crater that is Diamond Head. The beach was already becoming a surfers' playground and by 7am was swarming with longboards. Given time and suitable footwear I would have loved to have tackled the hiking trails of Diamond Head and view of Honolulu from the crater.
We spent our first day inspecting hotels. One thing is glaringly obvious – you must book an ocean front room or risk major disappointment. As one hotelier eloquently put it "the more green you give us, the more blue we give you!" Rest assured, Bon Voyage won't let you make the mistake of choosing a car park view rather than the Pacific Ocean.
We escaped the frenzy of Waikiki and headed north to the tranquillity of Turtle Bay. Given just enough time to explore the stunning Turtle Bay Resort, glimpse a green sea turtle and the beach that provided the backdrop to the TV drama 'Lost' and all of a sudden Oahu had become a different island.
The nature of these trips is that there is little time to gather one's thoughts and before we knew it we were aboard the short flight to Maui. What a contrast. We all let out a collective sigh as we stepped off the plane. You could instantly tell this island was the antidote to the frenzy of Honolulu. Maui is the older sister, a bit more grown-up and sophisticated, but still laidback and fun. I adored Maui. The people are special, the hotel selection first class, the beaches leave you speechless and the food is delicious. You could easily spend a week on Maui and you definitely need a car. Driving is easy and do pop for a Jeep or a convertible. The two main hotel/beach areas are Wailea/Makena and Kaanapali. When I go back I plan to split my time between the two as each has a different vibe.
We experienced our first luau, a traditional Hawaiian party, at the Royal Lahaina Resort. It was fantastic. It may seem a bit of a touristy thing to do, but I can assure you, the Hawaiians performing are doing so from the heart with genuine love and pride of their culture.
From Maui we enjoyed a day trip to the tiny island of Lana'i and once again I was blown away by the contrast in landscape. Palm trees were replaced by evergreens and pines bringing back thoughts of my native Northern Wisconsin. This is the island that was purchased by Larry Ellison (CEO of Oracle, the huge tech corporation) and the history is fascinating. Once completely dominated by pineapple production, what happened next is most interesting. The Culture and Heritage Center tells the story and this alone is worth the ferry ride. Plus, it is right next door to Hotel Lana'i which serves the most amazing deep dish chocolate chip cookie. Arriving by sea back into Maui is another reason to make the day trip; the views of the island from the water were spectacular and I have about 55 photos to prove it! Back on land we spent a most enjoyable evening in Lahaina. It's a sweet, old whaling village, perfect for mooching.
And before you know it, we're off again. Our next stop - the Big Island or as the Hawaiians prefer to call it, Hawaii Island.
I was very keen to see Hawaii Island, but have to admit we had some 'adventures' planned that I wouldn't normally sign up for. We flew into Hilo and proceeded immediately to the first, a helicopter tour of volcanoes and waterfalls. OK, I can handle that. Except do you remember the bit about this being a DOORLESS helicopter? Yes, nothing but that little seatbelt keeping me from getting real close to the lava. After the first ten minutes I start to relax a little and realise I was unlikely to accidentally undo my belt. By then we've made it to the Kilauea volcano and I just can't believe I am flying over an active volcano that only 13 years ago destroyed 181 houses and 9 miles of highway. The landscape is dominated by molten lava and feels completely prehistoric. Again, another island totally different from the three we've already visited.
If that wasn't enough for one day, next we were whisked off for a spot of zip lining, eight zips in all. Being blonde, it hadn't really dawned on me that while the first zip line was only about 20 feet off the ground, as you went through the 'course' the height increased until eventually you were hundreds of feet up (1,700 to be exact) and by then it was too late to bail out. And yet, I loved it! I still find it hard to believe that I completed the zip course and I owe it all to the crew at Kapohokine Adventures, an inspirational group of people.
After five hours of adventure, we headed northwest to Waikoloa and the Hilton Waikoloa Village, our hosts for the night. This place is impressive. With over 1,200 rooms, I thought for sure this wasn't going to be my cup of tea, but you know, they do it very well. The property is so spread out that you don't feel on top of anyone. Plus, it is one of the best whale watching spots on the island; the locals told us that February is generally the best month. We enjoyed one night here and then travelled south to Kona and the Sheraton Kona Resort.
I'm running out of adjectives now; the setting here was just incredible. It's right on the sea and surrounded by black volcanic rock. Here, 'Rays on the Bay' is Hawaii's only restaurant built on lava cliffs and most evenings offer a view of the resident manta rays. Definitely make a reservation for one of the fire pit tables. AND, speaking of manta ray….yep, my final adventure, night swimming with these impressive sea creatures.
The excursion operator, Fair Wind, provides a first class experience. The crew even make putting on a wet suit in front of a group of one's fellow swimmers not as cringe-making as it might be. The first suit I was given didn't stand a chance of getting past my knees, but our guide thought it would. I loved him for that! Anyway, all suited, masked and snorkelled, we jumped into the ocean and held on to a floating line attached to the boat.
The sea was lit from the bottom which illuminated the plankton, the only thing manta ray eat. They don't have a stinger or teeth, so are in a word, harmless. Until they come right under you and span about eight feet wide! It is considered good luck if they swim up to you so I expect to win the lottery any minute. I wasn't the least bit worried, it was all rather calm, except for the screaming of others in my group! They obviously missed the "they have no stinger or teeth" talk. We were in the water for about 40 minutes then headed back. Staying at the Sheraton is perfect for this excursion as we could still see the manta ray for hours, first from 'Rays on the Bay' and then from my room balcony. A truly amazing end to my last evening in Hawaii.
How can I sum it all up? I am in love. I'm glad I went to Oahu and I am sorry we didn't get to Pearl Harbour, so I'll be going back for that. Maui and Big Island are magical and on the list for next year. I plan to spend a full week on Maui and at least 4 nights on Big Island.
What do you need to know before considering Hawaii? It is going to be more expensive than anywhere else in the USA, but look at a map to remind yourself of where it is! They have to import everything, so staples like food and drink run about 10-15% more than cities like San Francisco and New York. Department store shopping isn't great value, so make sure to mix this holiday with a great shopping city if that is an important factor. I did fly all in one go which I wasn't keen on at first. Having now done it, I still think you get more out of a holiday pairing it up with pre and post stops, but if you are keen on spending your full two weeks in Hawaii – go for it!
Most of the hotels were built in the 1970's tourism boom and the exterior views don't hide the fact. The biggest lesson I learned is that you must look past the façade. The inner beauty of the places and people is there if you are open enough to see it. And, as I mentioned earlier – OCEAN FRONT is a must!
It's a long way and it isn't a beach holiday in the traditional sense. The Polynesian culture, people and history are fascinating and wanting to learn and immerse yourself is the reason to go. The beaches are just a bonus and form an amazing backdrop. As we boarded the shuttle to take us to the airport it was complete silence and heavy hearts. But, as the Hawaiians say "a hui hou." Until we meet again.
Which US airports have the best record for passengers clearing customs and immigration speedily? Having arrived off a long flight, blinking in the daylight when your every instinct tells you it ought to be night time, the last thing you want to see is a vast hall chock full of incoming passengers taking an interminable time to reach the immigration officer.
Waiting times to gain entry into the States have been known to reach 90 minutes or more. So how does the savvy traveller avoid this misery? American airports are businesses and, as we know, some businesses have to try harder than others to attract and keep customers. New York, Los Angeles, Miami? The business comes to them whether they put a high priority on customer satisfaction or not. Boston (215 miles from New York), San Diego (125 miles from Los Angeles), Tampa (270 miles from Miami)? These airports are not quite the magnets that the others are and they recognise that they can win valuable passengers from their rivals by offering a superior passenger experience. And that includes the time it takes for international visitors to clear customs and immigration.
As an international visitor the chances are that you are visiting a whole region rather than a single city so it might be perfectly easy to fly into say, San Diego as that might well be a part of your California itinerary anyway. After all, you can always fly home from LA, San Francisco or Las Vegas since you only clear immigration lines on your way into the country.
So here are our top five US airports for speedy arrival formalities (most of the time).
It’s an interesting list containing two airports requiring financial support in order to maintain international services and two of the busiest airports in the world for transit passengers. Those battling to maintain service are fighting hard to hold on to a commercially valuable situation and have to justify the funding they receive. They need happy travellers using their airports or they will lose them altogether.
The hub airports live or die by their ability to process millions of passengers a year; to get them through the airport and onto their connecting flights. If they fail to do this owing to immigration hold ups chaos is the result and airport managers will do anything to avoid chaos.
So now you know where to fly to what else can you do to have an edge? The most obvious answer is to fly in a premium cabin. Business and first class passengers enjoy Fast Track queue jumping at their departing airport, have their luggage priority tagged for speedy delivery to the baggage carousel but crucially exit the aircraft ahead of economy passengers getting them to the immigration line quicker than their fellow fliers.
What about departure times and days? Savvy Traveller has commented before on the joys of departing or arriving in the UK on a Sunday when home to airport travel times are more predictable but there is evidence to support later departure times too. Arriving after the 2pm-5pm travel bubble seems to help and has the added advantage that car rental queues should be shorter and you are going to bed relatively soon after your arrival, which is reckoned to aid the fight against jet lag. Nothing to do with speeding through customs and immigration but since we’re broadening out the subject to take in jet lag; consider flying home from the East Coast on a daylight flight. You rise early (really early) avoiding airport traffic and check in at around 7am for a flight which arrives in London around 8pm in the evening. By the time you’ve cleared the airport and arrived home, it’s time for bed. Many swear by it to get you back onto UK time really quickly.
Long dismissed as just a gateway to Florida’s Gulf of Mexico beaches, the vibrant city of Tampa has come into its own, says James Litston, the city’s UK representative.
If I had a pound for every time somebody said to me, "I've been to Tampa; I flew in there once on my way to the beach," I promise you I'd be rich. I've worked for Visit Tampa Bay (the tourist office) for almost 15 years, and I've heard this more times in that period than I'd care to count. I always offer the same response. Simply flying into a city, I tell them, isn't the same as experiencing it... and all those people who've passed straight through have seriously missed a trick.
Of course, that's not to say that Tampa doesn't attract plenty of visitors. With two major theme parks (Busch Gardens and Adventure Island) among the city's headline attractions, it has long been a favourite with the family market. Other highlights for those travelling with kids include Lowry Park Zoo (with its manatee rehabilitation centre), The Florida Aquarium and Museum of Science & Industry, whose indoor attractions are perfect for a rainy or too-hot day. Add in four family-friendly cruise lines sailing from Tampa's port and there's no end to the variety that a holiday here can offer.
But it's Tampa's more grown-up appeal that makes it really interesting. Whisper it, but this overlooked city has quietly evolved a very credible 'scene' in the past few years. Tucked away in pockets nowhere near the tourist districts, most visitors never get to find this vibrant, urban edge. So if you want to discover some of Tampa's urban charms, a little local knowledge will stand you in good stead.
The focus of Tampa's new, urban cool is very much on food and wine. About as far removed as it's possible to be from the typical Florida holiday image of fast-food burger joints, Tampa's emerging gourmet scene is truly ahead of the game. The 'plot to plate' ethos is alive and well here (though in the US it's called 'farm to table'), so there's real interest in the provenance of food and traceability of products. And nowhere is this more evident than in the leafy and historic Hyde Park district.
Hyde Park was one of Tampa's first suburbs. Known for its beautiful antebellum homes and graceful, lichen-covered oaks, this is Florida's version of Wisteria Lane - perfect and pristine, more movie set than neighbourhood. Hyde Park's most impressive homes are those strung along Bayshore Boulevard, whose multi-million dollar plots have priceless, waterfront views. But turn your back on the bay and head inland on South Howard Avenue and you'll find the epicentre of Tampa's foodie appeal.
South Howard (or SoHo, as it's become known) has long been considered Tampa's 'Restaurant Row'. The legendary Bern's Steak House is the best-known outlet here, where dry-aged steaks and the world's largest wine cellar have drawn well-heeled diners (including presidents and movie stars) for over 60 years. But even Bern's considerable fame is being eclipsed by its offshoot across the street - the Epicurean Hotel, which opened for business in December 2013.
Operated in collaboration with Marriott's Autograph Collection, the Epicurean is an upmarket hotel whose very name speaks of life's finer things. The first Marriott Autograph property to be built from the ground up, this entirely new hospitality concept has an extraordinary focus on food, from its state-of-the-art culinary classroom and stylish, rooftop bar to the run of Bern's incredible, half-a-million-bottle-strong wine collection.
The foodie theme even extends to the 137 guestrooms, where cushions embellished with silverware motifs meet champagne buckets sunk into tabletops and a mini-bar stocked with quality wines and gourmet treats. Even the in-house Evangeline Spa gets in on the act, with a range of treatments drawing heavily on edible ingredients, such as fresh fruit scrubs and rich, botanical oils infused with herbs plucked from a 'living wall'.
When it's time to get out and explore, the Epicurean has a small fleet of bicycles for guests to borrow, free of charge. It's an easy ride down to the bay, where dolphins and manatees can often be spotted; or head off through leafy backstreets to the shops and cafés of Hyde Park Village.
Bikes are not necessary for hitting the bars and restaurants a few blocks along the SoHo Strip. This area has become a nightlife hub for a thirty-something, bar-hopping crowd. Non-drinkers, meanwhile, tuck into the restaurants. Ceviche is a favourite for Spanish tapas, while Daily Eats is a failsafe bet for traditional American fare. Other good options include Copperfish (a seafood grill and oyster bar) and Ciro's Speakeasy, where the emphasis is on cocktails with a nod to the Prohibition era (true to the theme, a password is required to gain entry to the bar!).
But Hyde Park is not alone in experiencing a food revolution. Over on the other side of town, the Seminole Heights district is also garnering a reputation for not-to-be-missed dining. The pick of the crop here is Ella's, where live bands provide a memorable soundtrack to which to eat burgers and ribs. At weekends, it's all about Ella's Soul Food Sundays, a delightfully wacky musical feast that's fast become a Tampa institution.
It's not just in good food that Tampa excels. The city has also developed a remarkable craft brewing industry. Over in Ybor City (Tampa's historic Latin Quarter), the British-owned Tampa Bay Brewing Company serves ten different own-brewed beers, including its signature One Night Stand Pale Ale. The wares of another local producer, Cigar City Brewers, can be found on tap at Carmines, a trendy, Cuban restaurant on Ybor's Seventh Avenue. Alternatively, opt for a tour of the brewery itself (it's near the airport) to taste quirky brews flavoured with coffee or cucumber.
Ybor City is very much a party spot, with dozens of bars and clubs along the main drag, Seventh Avenue. By day, however, it's a much more laid-back affair. There are cafés to relax in and al-fresco dining, plus a Saturday street market and all sorts of one-off shops. A particular favourite is La France, a unique emporium of extremely fabulous, vintage and reproduction clothes and accessories. Another good Ybor City buy is hand-rolled cigars, a throwback from when this was the ‘cigar capital of the world’.
Tampa's only streetcar (tram) links Ybor City with Downtown. Although central Tampa lost much of its soul when the city sprawled out into endless suburbs, the downtown area has been undergoing a remarkable renaissance of late. New apartment buildings are enticing people to live back in the centre, and the services springing up around them appeal to residents and visitors alike.
One of Tampa's biggest investments is the almost-completed Riverwalk - a recreational trail skirting the lazy Hillsborough River. Starting near the cruise port and The Florida Aquarium, the paved route steers walkers, bikers and joggers along the waterway via the interactive Tampa Bay History Center and on towards the Tampa Museum of Art, Glazer Children's Museum and Tampa's iconic landmark: the historic and fanciful Plant Hotel (now the University of Tampa). The History Center, Museum of Art and brand new Aloft Tampa Downtown Hotel have waterfront cafés at which to take a break, while Tampa's newest restaurant, Ulele, draws diners to the Riverwalk's far end.
With its prime, riverfront location that's angled for the best sunsets in town, Ulele is already attracting a faithful clientele. The restaurant occupies the renovated, century-old waterworks building and, true to Tampa's foodie trend, serves a menu loaded with local foods and beers from its own in-house brewery. The focus is on native Floridian ingredients, organic where possible, to provide a true taste of Tampa Bay.
Across the river, another new restaurant in a restored building (this time the carriage house for the old Plant Hotel) has become a local phenomenon. Oxford Exchange combines a bookshop and stylish homeware boutique with a bright, airy restaurant serving fresh, simple meals made with seasonal (and often organic) ingredients. It's only open for breakfast and lunch and is incredibly popular at weekends, when brunch specials and an impressive tea menu are guaranteed crowd-pleasers.
Not all of Downtown's attractions are new, though. The average Florida holiday is rarely a cultural affair, but Tampa's Straz Center for the Performing Arts and the beautifully restored, 1926 Tampa Theatre are great places to catch a show. Equally exciting is the chance to win big at the Seminole Hard Rock Casino - officially the world's sixth-largest casino - which is just the other side of Ybor City. Sports fans, meanwhile, can catch the game of their choice; choose from ice hockey, basketball or American football, then get ready to raise the roof.
Tampa may indeed be a convenient gateway to the white, sandy shores of Florida's Gulf Coast, but why rush to the beach? With its world-class attractions and supporting cast of shopping, dining, golf and nightlife, you'll find all the wonders of a Florida holiday right here in Tampa Bay. So start your vacation with a few days discovering Tampa's urban charms, and enjoy a best-of-both-worlds experience combining city and sea.
The Epicurean is a Bon Voyage Preferred Hotel. Ask your travel consultant about including a stay as part of your next Florida holiday.
Lara Smith (Sales Supervisor)
Lara joined Bon Voyage 15 years ago as a bright teenager determined to make her way in travel. She qualified as a Modern Apprentice, a government sponsored training scheme and began her career as a young travel consultant.
By 2002 she had gained a position as a fully-fledged member of the Bon Voyage sales team and began to develop expertise in all aspects of the complex business of planning tailor-made holidays. In-house and external training played a part but Lara attributes a lot of her success to her travels to and within the US and Canada.
I was so lucky to be exposed to crossing the Atlantic, exploring different regions and evaluating hotels and resorts from such a young age. I had experts on hand to show me what to look for and along the way I developed a love of many regions of North America.
In 2009 Lara was promoted to the position of Sales Supervisor and now enjoys sharing her knowledge with our newer recruits.
'But my great passion remains working with clients to create their perfect holiday. I ask a lot of questions and really listen to what they want from their trip. You have to be so careful not to think your own preferences are what everyone else is looking for. I normally put forward a couple of alternative plans and we then firm up the final plan from there.'
Lara has recently returned from a holiday with her partner, James, to New York City and Florida. The romantic chap went down on one knee with the Statue of Liberty as a backdrop and Lara is now sporting a diamond ring and making wedding plans. There are no prizes for guessing who will arrange the honeymoon and in what direction they'll be headed!
